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Tom Parker Bowles reviews Lurra: The Great Spanish Steak Off: My friend and I are at war – is this Basque beef London’s best, or just very, very good? Old cow. Hardly a term of endearment at the best of times. And certainly not one to get the taste buds priapic with lust. But that’s exactly what’s in front of me now, a vast, bone- in slab of beef, hewn from a 1. Galician mooer, and cooked blushingly rare over coals. It’s a serious piece of meat, imbued with the sort of deep ferric tang that only experience can bring. We may live in an era that myopically venerates youth, but true greatness usually comes with age. The Lurra steak has more flavour than a similar one sold at Kitty Fisher's, a flavour that reverberates around the mouth like a delectable echo, leaving a blissfully buttery trail in its wake. My friend and fellow critic Giles reckons this steak is not a patch on a similar one sold at Kitty Fisher’s.

They are the same breed and come from the same supplier. He says Kitty’s cooking method (which involves a rather complicated process of high heat, then rest, high heat, then rest) allows that wise old fat to melt into the flesh. This is probably true, but as much as I liked the Kitty steak (and love Kitty Fisher’s), the Lurra version has more flavour, a flavour that reverberates around the mouth like a delectable echo, leaving a blissfully buttery trail in its wake. Giles, though, is insistent that Kitty’s is superior. Very insistent indeed. Despite all these steaks being hewn, I assume, from different beasts, each with their own idiosyncrasies. Anyway, enough: I’m becoming a steak bore. There’s either good steak or bad steak, and this is firmly in the former camp.

The beef, though, is just one part of Lurra’s undeniable appeal. A Basque restaurant hidden behind Marble Arch, the room is as bright, white and sexy as a Nordic supermodel’s smile. The kitchen is open, and a small meat locker holds vast hunks of dear old Galician Daisy. It’s the sort of place you want to linger in, a new place with an old soul. The food is simple but never base, unpretentious but artful too.

There’s either good steak or bad steak, and this is firmly in the former camp. The beef, though, is just one part of Lurra’s undeniable appeal. A Basque. Faro es el descubridor de información académica y científica de la Biblioteca Universitaria. En él podrás encontrar libros impresos y electrónicos, tesis. Reserva online una de las 17 salas disponibles en Ciencias y en Humanidades. El Servicio de Bibliotecas ofrece formación para todos los miembros de la Universidad.

I remember the days when British Spanish restaurants were places to shun and avoid, reeking of burnt garlic, dodgy timeshares and despair. With its smiling, wonderful staff, and light- looded room, and menu that brings us the very best of Basque, Lurra is exactly the sort of restaurant I love. They were as much fun as third- degree sunburn. Everything was stained red by cheap, vitriolic wine. Including the lips of the over- familiar restaurateur (usually a slightly seedy Brit kicked out of Spain for taxes unpaid), who would try and flog you pappy prawns and sangria, while leering at any female in sight. Mean, bitter olives, condom- textured cephalopods, vomit- scented Russian salad and something fished from the depths of the deep- fat fryer. Then came Moro, Fino and José Pizarro. Followed by the brilliant Barrafinas and the Salt Yard crew, and suddenly, it’s hola Iberia! Watch Edwin Boyd Online on this page. Actually, I’ve eaten some of the worst food of my life in Spain. And this from a man who endured British boarding school food for ten years. These days, Spain might sit at the vanguard of the post- modern culinary world (and have some of the planet’s greatest meat and seafood places), but try telling the chain- smoking, BO- scented waiter that the turgid, grease- soaked tortilla lurking before me is not what I expect from the land that gave us El Bulli and El Celler de Can Roca. Lurra 9 Seymour Place, London.

W1. H 5. BA, 0. 20 7. Still, like all great food cultures, Spanish food is at its best when it lets wonderful ingredients do all the talking. And at Lurra, even the tiniest detail –the almonds, say – are spot- on. Fresh, slightly sweet and with a whiff of smoke. Proper Albarino too, the good stuff (and at a decent price. Take note, Scott’s) I remember swilling in Galicia. A few years back, I went there with the Hart brothers (of Barrafina) to search for percebas, or goose- necked barnacles. Harvesting them is a treacherous affair, involving leaping onto wave- bashed rocks a few miles out in the Atlantic tumult. We were allowed nowhere near the real action, quite rightly, and sat, puce- faced, stricken with murderous hangovers, trying desperately not to bring up the previous night’s excess.

It was one hell of a trip. Back, though, to Lurra, and good, chewy sourdough served with a split bone filled with wobbling bone marrow. Nothing revolutionary, but exactly the food I love to eat, fat, salt and sourdough crust. Gernika peppers (one of six ‘official’ Basque peppers, similar to Padron, without the chance of a hot ’un) are blistered, soft, quietly verdant and mildly bitter, doused in salt and oil. Prawn croquettes, oozing and buttery, are every bit the equal of those at Barrafina. While ceps with egg yolk and shaved, frozen foie gras combined the seductively rich with the whiff of early autumn. With that vast steak hogging most of the table, there was little room for much else, save a sneaky monkfish tail in a subtle garlic sauce. The fish, a beast I once ignored until I saw the light down at The Seahorse, is charred and muscular and still humming of the sea. Plus chips, proper chips, golden in all the right places, and dusted with paprika. Because that’s the thing about Lurra. With its smiling, wonderful staff, and light- looded room, and menu that brings us the very best of Basque, it’s exactly the sort of restaurant I love. As for the battle of the beef..

TAKING A BITE OUT OF BOISE-AREA EATERIES. W. elcome to the other side of the magazine. Depending on how you picked up the inaugural edition of Boise Eats/Boise Drinks. Noticia completa 31/10/2017 martes Turnitin. Sesiones Formativas Presenciales La Biblioteca Universitaria ha organizado diferentes acciones formativas presenciales de.

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Lurra might not have the best steak in London. But it’s a magnificent piece of meat, well worthy of love, veneration and respect. Lunch for minus drinks: £7. Or £1. 00 with the steak. FIVE MORE TO TRYThe best places to eat steak around Britain THE POTTED PIG CARDIFF thepottedpig. Properly aged Abergavenny beef, cooked by people who know what they’re doing.

You’ll also find American cuts of beef, as well as other marvellous meats. HAWKSMOOR LONDON  thehawksmoor. The people who took serious steak to an art form. All manner of rare- breed cuts, properly aged and cooked over coals. Plus wonderful burgers, hot dogs, a good wine list and breakfast. CHAMPNEY INNLINLITHGOW champany.

Not one but two restaurants dedicated to fine Scottish beef. The restaurant itself serves up every cut you can think of, cooked over a specially designed charcoal grill. And the Chop and Ale House serves up still more steak, plus good burgers. GOODMANS LONDON goodmanrestaurants. Another London legend, and the same level of meaty magic as Hawksmoor. Plus you get a choice of meat from around the globe, including that magical glacial cow. THE CHURCH GREEN CHESHIRE aidenbyrne.

Aiden Byrne is one hell of a chef, and at his pub, The Church Green, you’ll find some wonderful British beef. All the usual cuts are there, plus sauces and decent chips. LOCAL HEROPRESSCRIPTION It’s impossible to escape juices these days. But the vast majority taste a bit the same. But Presscription’s are different. Cold- pressed (and beautifully branded), they taste wonderful.

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